How to install the Mod My Model M kit

Install guide

Follow these steps to install your Mod My Model M kit. Take your time and refer to the troubleshooting section if you encounter issues.

This kit requires your Model M is bolt-modded. If your board is still held together by melted rivets, you must bolt-mod first (or while installing).

⚠ Important

Bolt-modding is permanent and requires drilling through the case. Work slowly and carefully.

Disassemble: Remove all keycaps, flip keyboard, remove screws, separate case halves.
Mark rivet locations: Use center punch to mark the center of each plastic rivet (×20 total).
Drill out rivets: Use 3mm bit, drill slowly through each rivet. Clean debris.
Install bolts: Insert M2 × 12mm screws from top, add washers (optional), thread nuts from bottom. Tighten evenly (don't overtighten).
Test fit: Reassemble case to verify alignment before proceeding.

Unplug keyboard and remove all keycaps (use keycap puller or carefully pry with fingers).
Flip keyboard and remove all case screws/bolts. Note cable routing.
Separate case halves carefully. The barrel plate may stick to the top case.
Disconnect membrane: Release ZIF connector latch on original controller, gently remove membrane tail.
Remove original controller and LED assembly: Unscrew/unclip from case. Note mounting positions.
Remove original membrane stack: Carefully lift out the 3-layer membrane (top, spacer, bottom).
Clean barrel plate: Wipe with isopropyl alcohol to remove dust and residue.

Inspect new membrane: Verify no damage, check diode orientation (should all face same direction).
Align membrane layers: Place bottom layer on barrel plate, align holes with barrel positions.
Add spacer layer: Align carefully (misalignment causes key registration issues).
Add top layer: Ensure membrane tail exits in correct direction (toward controller mounting area).
Verify alignment: Check that all three layers are properly aligned before proceeding.

💡 Tip

The membrane tail should have a small mark or notch indicating pin 1. This must align with pin 1 on the controller's ZIF connector.

Mount controller PCB: Position in case (use original mounting holes or provided standoffs).
Connect membrane to controller: Open ZIF connector latch, insert membrane tail (pin 1 aligned), close latch firmly.
Verify connection: Gently tug membrane tail to ensure it's seated properly.
Install LED PCB: Mount in original LED position, connect to controller via provided cable.
Route USB cable: Install 3D-printed USB housing, route cable through case opening.

If you purchased the Super keys upgrade, you'll need to modify the case to accommodate the additional keys.

Mark cut area: Between Ctrl and Alt keys, mark ~3mm × 30mm section to remove.
Cut carefully: Use rotary tool, file, or sharp knife. Work slowly to avoid cracking plastic.
Smooth edges: File and sand until smooth.
Install spring assemblies: Insert provided barrel, spring, and keycap into cut positions.
Test fit: Verify keys actuate properly before final assembly.

⚠ Warning

This modification is permanent and requires cutting the case. If you're not comfortable with this, skip the Super keys upgrade.

Initial test: Before reassembling, plug into USB and verify the board enumerates (check Device Manager / System Information).
Test key matrix: Use a key tester tool or text editor. Press each key position to verify registration.
Test NKRO: Use an online NKRO test tool, press multiple keys simultaneously (10+ keys).
Test LEDs: Press Caps Lock, Num Lock, Scroll Lock to verify LED indicators work.
Flash firmware (if needed): See Firmware page for instructions.
Reassemble case: Carefully close case halves, install all screws/bolts evenly.
Reinstall keycaps: Press firmly until each keycap clicks into place.
Final test: Test all keys again after reassembly.

Common issues and solutions. If your problem isn't listed here, contact support.

Check USB cable connection: Ensure cable is fully seated in controller and USB housing.
Try different USB port: Some ports provide more stable power.
Check for shorts: Inspect controller PCB for solder bridges or debris.
Verify controller power: If controller has power LED, check if it lights up.

Check ZIF connector: Ensure membrane tail is fully inserted and latch is closed.
Verify pin 1 alignment: Membrane tail pin 1 must align with controller pin 1 (check for mark or notch).
Inspect membrane tail: Look for tears, creases, or damage to the ribbon cable.
Test continuity: Use multimeter to check continuity from membrane tail to controller pins.
Reseat membrane: Open ZIF latch, remove membrane, reinsert carefully, close latch.

Check barrel alignment: Ensure spring barrel is properly seated in barrel plate.
Verify membrane alignment: Misaligned membrane layers cause registration issues.
Inspect diode: Check if diode at that key position is damaged or missing.
Clean contacts: Wipe membrane contact area with isopropyl alcohol.

Adjust debounce in firmware: Increase debounce time in QMK config (default is usually 5ms, try 10-15ms).
Check for loose connections: Ensure membrane is firmly seated.
Inspect spring: Worn or damaged springs can cause inconsistent actuation.

Check LED PCB connection: Ensure cable from controller to LED PCB is fully seated.
Verify LED polarity: LEDs must be installed in correct orientation.
Test with firmware: Some firmware builds disable LEDs by default. Check QMK config.
Check for shorts: Inspect LED PCB for solder bridges.

Enable NKRO in OS: Windows may require enabling NKRO in keyboard settings.
Check firmware config: Ensure NKRO is enabled in QMK config (NKRO_ENABLE = yes).
Try different USB port: Some USB hubs don't support NKRO properly.
Verify diode matrix: All diodes must be present and correctly oriented.